Machine for sewing seams with gaps.



L. ROSENMAN.

MACHINE Fon sEwmG sEAMs WITH GAPs.

APPLICATION FILED SE?T. 3 \9`l4.

Patented Aug. 28, 1917.

5 SHEETS-SHEET l.

Ly ROSENMAN. MACHWE FOR SEWING SEAMS WITH GAPS. APPLicATwN man sEPT.3.19x4.

1,238,438. Patented Aug. 28, um

l 5sHETsAsHEEr 2.

L. ROSENMAN.

MACHxNE PGR SEWING sEAMs wHH GAPS.

APPUCAUQN FILED SEPT. 3 1914. 1,238,438. Patented Aug. 28, 1917.

5 SHEETS-SHEY 3,

L. ROSENMAN.

MACHINE Fon SEWING sEAMs WITH GAPS.

APPLICATUN FLED SEPY. 3 T914- Patented Aug. 28, 1917.

5 sHEET`s-sHET 4.

L. RUSENMAN MAHlNE Foa sEwmG Sims wlTH GAPS.

Patnted Aug 28, WET

a QHEV SPLIT f APPUCAIGN HLED SEPT. 3, NH4.

LEO BOSELN, Gf BROOKLY MACHINE FOR SEWING S'ELMS Application CORPORATION 0F NIHV JERSEY.

NLTH GAPS.

Specicaton of Letters Patent.

To all wlw/n, it may onor/rn.:

llc it known llnit l. Inco oitizvn ol' the Unitml Stilton" lonnxnAN, :t rosnling nt :2

Lnlnyultv street, Brooklyn,y county ot' Kings,

nml Stute of New Yor tnln now und nsetnl 1 chinos for Scwing Simms with (inps,

ilosrrihcrl und reprcsvntod in the following specification und tho accompanying draw ings, iornnng n pnrt of th(J Hanru.

'lhc objvct ot this invention 1S primarily to furnish n moons o f Scanning strips to ;vthor with gaps in tho sonni to :nllnit nn'lnl fasteners, as hooks and own. which muy than he sonni-Oil stitrhing :it the rnr o in thu gaps hy n row of nils of the l'nstcnorst Such Strips. 'provided refipvctively with hooks und oyes, or eqnnnlrnt Inol'nl histonors, nrc thus :nlnpteil t'or oprnings of garnie-.nts for ings (lctzxchably.

'The invention may be adapted,

poses to which it is parts of the invention nttnrhnient to the closing Such opennsed for other pnrmnl different in ny hv nsml with or without the other pnrts (lesrrihed heroin.

Tho gaps in tholinrl of stitching: :tra l'ohl npon onf` of thu lqll-ips alongr tln` sowing-lim upon the other sli-ip. along;` which lino tho senin or row of stitchrs: iS vxtonilifl, :mil i?. (livirtfd when a gn fold s0 :1S to pass fnhric strips. There i no1-tion hotwoun thu sh sparo is thereby loft fnstoncr To strrngthen thv cinls ot' tho gap. it is hy moans of tiwstitchos or tncking or tvniling Hivm'nl stil'vhi lhe sonni :it the gzip.

Tho sowing mznzhmo opvrntions` ninst romnticallp7 :ti-ront or is to he formed, ontsiile the odge of the through only ono ot th@I S therefore, no vonips at Such gap., nnrl to mm't the1 mvtnl hotwnin tho strips. Smm

preferably rinnfori-ml nt the* opposite'y S ncl-osg the lino of beginning nml uml of thol for performing those thore'lorv 'he ndnptml to nn- ,Qhortfn the fred nt pnirs ol ailjnrint points npon they sewingline.` which points nro the gzip, nml moons nn to form thoI enils of uit ho provided when tho fowl is thns ntrrstvil to extend tho eatin-hos laterally trnnsvi-rsv to tho Sewinglinv. to roin'forno the senin.

A mnchilnx for making Straight-lint' Rtmhos mn tho zigmg or vmlnoiil the more nrrusting or s either zigzag or ho vlnployoil; it' vry nnwhino liv nnocl hortiening of the t'oull will oplrnic to forni Sli ot' the nonni, to riini'orcn the` lnlt if it straight-lino machine be must ho prmirlod to shift the N, NEW YORK, ASSIGNGR TO E. K. BI. COMANY, A

Tnicniod Ang. 21%, i'.

filed September 3, 1914. Serial No, 859,551.

tchos across, thal line ends. of the gzip und forth across tho liinof the svnni. to form the tiestitching or reinforcing' Stitches Wlnrc the shifting o snry, provlsion is mafie to vll-nr the cloth from ot the cloth fabric. f the` cloth is neces for lifting the foot the feed-dog din'q ingr ninth shifting opor-ation, und the shitting ilwlf is coiivenicnl'lil effected hy a. scroll or :itt-ached to foot ole lllngniilc ost-i llnt i on ol' tho lrnnmorsnly beneath the An oxnlioilimnt of the` in theA annexed drawing.

'from th@ invention does not nonsist in tho precise mechanism shown herein,

rmnlili nnlvrstood Si'riplion that the the foot, so that the will shift the cloth needle..

invention is shown hut it will be following cleans for performing nml automatically the successivo opvrntions required in Senming the stri DS togotlwr with rui-vivo mitnl fntenors.

mns in the saam to Tho inrontion n'il he mitin-storni h refw drawing. in which ot tlw rom' Sino of n :inning Innrhinn provirlpil with the iniprotfennnln: Fig. Q in n front eflemtion of' tho mith chino; Fig. 3 is n plain of the' nml'liinn; Fig.

l is n plnn of tlnx foot :i portion of thv imlion olI thv Finn'nll sui-nrorl tln'rvon; the rnln-slilli nhirh opv Fitz'. T is' n vross Swtion l; Figi'. sinn-fs :l Hliip :nul doth-guide with isit strip with two eyes Fifi, V is1 nn elevation of rotes npon the feed; on lin@ 7-7111 Fig. with @vos inserted;

YFigA .l in :i gration on liml {iT-5l in., Fig. 4;

iline 'lo Vig. ll in n plnn showing the` lnpllcan tion ol' thtr-.loth--gnrles upon the presser foot. lo he nsml with two neefllvs.

'llnfrom@ of the machine is Shown mth livel han l). :intl foot-bnr E. carrying foot F 'cloth-guides G and G.

standard P1 goose-neck (l. nndlen sind procntzi y Suitable wnnwrtion; lo n. (iriving-Slnift H, sind tha nlixilinry nttnilnnonts omployed for theV nisent invention nro operatori hf? a. -rossshaft l Snppfntvil in hemrings l J upon thv.

nnrlor siii@ l nrl'rsl tho fowl. fi'inl for for oni'lllnling ihc loin.

of lh"x mrow-wok with Cnins to lifting thi* toot anal This rnm-shnft'hus three mins rotated by' i wornmvheei n and a worin s upon the rriving'shnft. The worni-wheel advances one tooth for meh reeiproention of the needle. :1mi the muniour of teeth in the wormwheei eqlmi to the number of stitches re quiredI to perionn one ryeie oi' the desired HNYUHS- Yhe foot is nttan'ind to n f(iothnr E which is movable in bearings in the heed C of the nnarhine pumiui with the needle-iler i), f-.inis ff fire projected from the foot-fuir V me and hehex its hearings und carry a ieri-nr rf if which i Connection is merio min .-i wim L, to oseiiiate Athe foot-bari tout, :ind the eiothfguide.

The rem L has certain projet' ions Whieh operate to osoiilnte the foot and doth-guido ovv ineens of u. roekerbw o? und n link-rod ff" inning n ...spring d to retreet it, The heafioi rod e?" itterl movnoiy to the hodyrod e?. The :n is formed :is it disk Wit-ii ihree projert :ns e, e, e?, which operate follows:

Vixen he feed is stopped or great le rim-ed, to permit the anginrly dispose tieiing or reinforcing of the seem at the wg; :ning of e gap, the sie inu end of. the pr imrtion r presses npon t e link-rod auf?` nimes the doth-g! nde So that a, Stitch is eiwn irensverseiy to the sewing-line.

The top of the projection e holds the 1-ifie stationery whie the needieis eiolh, end when the noedie is with :ii-awo. from the cloth, the Continued rotei tion of the cani permite the second soping foi-lion of this projection to oieau' the 0nd of the link-rod, which een then rest [lyon sin, edge of the enfin between the projections and prodnfes u second .etitrh normes winglne und h'ings the si'itrii again you ahr. edge of-the strip n.

Tlf iVY It mi oi' the reutrfii projection c before the 'feed again started to :mother :isn-Motion of the Cloth- 'ni :hiring t i formation of i hini e es In uiirii brings the Siitrhing oli o." the #up w iin fend is re-roimnenced et the concluifn of the thm-e reinforcing stitches and (hf top or' the umn e is made of su rient wenn io held the riotlrguiie stationery,

To :imstriies uw formed off the pr emp n, Lo muito the desired gn "wwf is stumped upon the comp eton 'chos'. emi [he end of the f, when it :novos den!" of the Vinile the spring J2 io more "o promu-v :i tiwstitrh mi of the ,Quin align lil it right-:urging tn edge Y n "f then {f'gwretes upon he ME y-we the mme sie the projection f, .1 fw; more trensveree stitches while the feed is arrested, and the concentric surface of the cam then holds the clothide to form the stitching along the edge o the strip n until the feed is arrested to form another gap.

With the eem shown in the drawing, such concentric surface permits the formation of twenty-one stitches between the aps, which with the three reinforcing stitc es at each end of the up and the three stitches beyond the edge o the strip n, makes thirty stitches in all; und such a cani is easily designed by dividing its periphery making the rejections of suitab e length end at suitab e spaces upon the edge of the eem.

With such e cam e. Worm-wheel having thirty teeth wouid be used, eine onee for each thirty needle.

Fig. it shows the two strips m and n to carry the metal fasteners, the former serv Ing es ebese which may be made of any width for attachment to the garment-opening, and the latter having e fold m' at One edge, which fold is secured to the bese by a line oi stitches o.

Intermediate to the projections e and e, :i projection e2 of much greater length is provided, to hold the foot and cloth-guide lo one side of the sewing-line while several sltrhes are mede, thus` clearing the fois! upon the ed e of the strip n, which is eisen here unite to the base m.

Fig. i shows et o the Stitches made while the riotingnide is held at one side of the sewing-line o and Which clear the edge of the foid n', thus leaving such fold disconnected from the base.

o :shows the tie-stitching or erossstitehes for reinforcing the ends oi' the gap Fig. 5 shows fasteners in ih@ iol-m ot' metal hooks inserted in the gaps whirh nre thus formed, and which :ire iettered p in Fig. 4.

` und 4 show a wide riotingnide (i ittnuheei to the foot F to guide the bz|isestrip m beneath the nee-dh. .find :liso :L clothguicv G adapted to guide the narrower strip n :md to make folds n :zt its opposite edges.

The strip n is sewed upon the hase we, with the fold n* exposed,y so [Slet when the strip is 'Folded over upon the lmse zu; in Fig. f. the fohis of the strip n, :are ronces-Jod.

ifg. J shows, in Section. tn- :drip n Se mar-m upon the lmsestrip m, ily stitches 0, Fig, E shows the strip n folded over, ne

ig. 5, in whivh position it may he se- 'ed behind the eyes by ai iine of stitching fj, :e-z-i ettneiief! in the garment.

ihn-Eng the osviilution of the foon eeehiff to jf VME! i ein smi; ii ging stitches of the so aste turn the into thirty arts and IIS are formed upon blocks L on the inner side of the disk of the cam L, which cam-faces operate upon the rear end f ofi a lever f' which is pivoted upon the goose-neckat L, and its forward end fitted beneath the arm c uopn the upper end of the foot-bar E. When lifted, the rod (Z slides through the head of the bar ai.

The foot-bar is, in practice pressed normally downward by a spring, and therefore presses the cloth upon a feed-dog c with the desired force, and the lifting-lever f may be engaged with the foot-bar'in any desired manner to lift the same.

T o l'ift the foot and to oscillate it in the proper relation to the gaps required upon the seam, the cams are made to rotate once during each complete cycle oi operations required to make one gap and connect it by a line of stitching with that previously made. Such rotation. of the cams is shown effected by a worm-wheel a and worm b, and the number of teeth in the worm-wheel may be varied to produce the desired relation, or the cams may be rotated by other' means.

To arrest or shorten the feed at the points .where the tie-stitching or reinforcement of the gaps is desired, a connection is made between the driving-shaft H and the feed adjusting shaft r (see Figs. 1 and 6), which is connected withthe shaft s by which the feeddo alemovcd.

he shaft r is manually operated in such cases by a finger-lever r', and the novelty of the present construction consists in connecting the driving-shaft H by a cam with the feed-shaft r, so that the rock-shaft may be actuated automatically at suitable intervals to arrest the feed at each end of the gap.

For this purpose, a slide M is fitted to a dove-tail upon the bearing J', as shown in Figs. 3, 5 and 6, and connected by a rack a and a pinion s to move the feed-shaft.

A cam N is fitted to the cam-shaft I outside of such slide, and the latter is provided with a roll N which is held against the edge of the cam bv a spring N2.

A screw 3 is attached to the bottom of the hearing J' to bear upon a shonlaler upon the bottom of the slide.

rlhe upper and lower edges of the cam N are indicated in dotted lines in Fig. 6, and two adjacent projections a are formed upon thc edge of the cam to reduce the feed twice in such'camiotation, at the ends .of a gap. The roll N is shown in Fig. 6 1n positlon when the second stitch at the side of the gap is being formed.

Each of the projections n reduces the feed to permit the reinforcing with three stitches ai; one end of the gap.

The cam being rotated once by the wormwhccl for a definite number of stitches, the feed is thus automatically shortened or arrested at the proper points in the sewingline, to form a ap of the desired length.

The screw 8 1s provided to re u ate the stroke of the feed, as this screw (etermines the extent to which the slide shall move downward after it is lifted by the cam-projections n.

The transverse length. of the stitches across the sewing-line may he varied by the adjustment of a collar d upon the link-rofl d', which collar contacts with one of the bearings of the rod when the cam-projections e, e', e2 have moved it, and thus determines the extent of retraction effected by the spring.

It will be understood that the machine has means for moving the cloth and needle in relation to one another transversely or angularly to the sewing-line, and means for varying the extent of such transverse movement, and also possesses means for lifting the foot during such transverse movement to clear the fabric-strip from the feed-dog.

The machine also has means in the cam N and its connections to the rock-shaft r, for automatically shortening or arresting the feed at definite points, thus Securing, with the transverse movement, means for repeating the stitches at such points to reinforce the seam at the ends of the gaps. Such shortening er arresting I have termed reducing in the claims.

The product of this machine is made the subject of a sepa-rate application No. 856 397 filed by me August 12, 1914, with title, 1arment-fastener holder, but the product is fully illustrated herein. i

Great economy of manufacture is secured by using a machine with two needles to form hook and eye strips simultaneously. In Figs. 1, 2 and 4, the foot F is shown with the cloth-guides G and G adapted to guide p the base-strip, and the machine may be provided with two needles and such guides doubled, to feed hook-strips and eye-strips separately to the needles, and thus secure perfect coincidence of the gaps upon both strips.

Fig. 11 shows-a foot F provided with two sets of guides, one being wide to receive hooks in the gaps, and the other being'much narrower to receive eyes in the gaps, as it is common to use much narrower strips for the application of eyes to a garment.

The foot is provided with slots t and t', for the passage of needles u and u', and is also provided o positie the needle u with wide guides G, (il and upon the other side with narrow guides g, g.

The two products are shown moving sido by side from the needles with the gaps in the sewing-line exactly coincident.

The strips with the hooks and eyes secured in the gaps may be called garmentiastener holders, and these holders are not only made to agree perfectly with one anduced with much greater @the feed enable the needle to lay several stitches close other by the means described, but arc prorapidity than ii" made in separate operations, while also adapting them more perfectly for coperative use.

Where the duplicated fixtures are attached to the foot, all lthe operations oi the machine are lthe same as described herein in connection with the cloth-guides (i, (l alone` as the forlnatiortof the seam and the rein i'orc ing gaps are similarly produced by each ol' the needles.

I have made claiih herein of means for performing the opermions which are effected in the machine shown and described herein; but it is obvious-that anyv equivalent means may be used without de parting from my invention, which is not therefore limited to the partcula r consi ruction shown herein.

` It is immaterial Whether a foot and clothguides constructed to oseillate upon a foot bar be used, or a foot and elotleguidesl mounted to slide transversely of the sewingline, as both would operate in the same main ner to move the cloth transversel)r to sueh line.

It is immaterial whether the feed is arrested or suiliciently shortened in making;r the gap and reinforcing the scam at the ends of the gap, as it -is common to greatly reduce in sewing machines, which would to comhinalirms to one another across the sewing-line. and thus produce the desired reinforcement.

here a zigzag machine is used, means must be provided not only to arrest or greatly shorten the feed, but also to wholly arrest the vibrationsrof the needle, as otherwise the stitches would reach the line ol thel seam at each vibration oi. the needle and no gap would be formed.

claim:

1. `In a sewing machine, mechanism l'or sewing a pluralit?7 of strips together' with a seam provided with gaps to receive fasteners, a reciprocating needle, a feeding means, a plurality of supcrposed guiding devices` each device being employed for guiding a strip of fabric, and means actuated by the machine for moving said guiding devices laterali relative to the main sewing ,line and ho din said devices in each oi'` a plu ralityV4 of different lateral positions -for a plurality of stitches, in one of said positions one of said guiding devices having ils de- 4liYely end out of alinement with the line oi.'

stitching.

2. In a sewing machine, mechanism for sewing two strips together with a straight seam, which consists of a reciprocating noedle, a feeding means, and cloth-guides Il'or feeding said strips beneath the needle and to Said feeding means, an oscillatory bar carrying said cloth-guides, and means cope rating ing lranrersely rlear of the needle and forming thereby a era tin with said bar for swinging said elol-lrguides so as to move the strips transverse!)Y ol' the sewing line and to produce reinforced si itehto said straight seam.

.'l. In a sewing machine, the mechanism Al'or seaming' two strips together with gaps in the seam to receive metal fasteners, which consists ol" a reciprocating needle, feedingr means 'l'or 'feeding' said strips beneath the needle to form :istlzligllt seam along' the edge oi' at least one of the strips` means for reducing the feed at pre-determined points` and repeating the stitching bark and forth at such points to provide tie-stitches and reiuforce the seam at said points, and means l'or shifting the entire strip to bold its ede-e gap in the line of stitches with a rovi of stilching in front of the gap al one side ol' the line of the seam.

4. 1n a sewing,y machine, the mechanism for seaming two strips together with gaps in the lseam to receive metal Fasteners, which consists of a reciprocating needle` feeding means for feedinglr said strips beneath the needle t0 form a straight seam along the edge of at least one of the strips, cloth guides adapted to guide the strips, means to' shorten or arrest the feed at pairs of the :id- `iaceut points in the sewing line, meansl to laterally shift the guiding edge of the cloth guides several times back and forth and angularly to and from the sewing line at the points where the feed is reduced lo provide tie-stitches and reinforce the seam at the said points.

5. ln a sewing machine, the mechanism for seaming two strips together v'with gaps in the seam to receive metal fastener. which consists of a reciprocating needle, feeding means for feeding said strips beneath the needle to form a seam along the edgeof at least oneof the strips, cloth-guides adapted le guide the strips, means to shorten or air-rest the feed at pairs of adjacent points in the sewing line, means to laterally shift the guiding edge of the cloth-guides sew eral times back and forth Yand singularly to and from the sewing line at the points where the feed is reduced to provide tiestitehcs and reinforce the Seam at the said points, and means for fholding the cloth guides stationary in their laterallyr shifted position between the adjacent omts, andy for feeding and stitching the eibth at oneI sido ol the seam between such adjacent points while in such vshifted position.

6. A sewing` machine having a driving shaft and means connected thereto and opin unison, such means consisting of a neer le-bar, means for reciprocating the same, means for feeding material to the needle, means reducing the 'feed at predete mined po nts, a foot having a clothguidi*r and a footsbar, and bearings in which lll) lili

lill) the bar may oscillate, and means to oseillate the bar when the feed is reduced, to oseillate the cloth-guide transversely to the qewngllne.

7. A sewing),` machine having a Havingshatt and means eonneted thereto and operating in unison, such means consisting of a needle-bar, means for reciprocating the saine, means for feeding'material to the needle, a slidahle foot-bar, and a foot attached thereto, hearings in which the foothar may oscilate and reciprocate, a clothguide attached to the foot to direct the cloth, means to reduce the feed at adjacent fixed points, means to oseillate the, foot when the feed is reduced. means to reinforce the Seam at the fixed points, and means to lift the foot during Sueh oseillation.

8. A sewing lnaehine having means to reciprocate a needle` a foot having a eloth-l guide attached thereto` means to litt and more the toot transversely and arrose the sewing line, a l'eed dog, a eaxn. and manually controlled means between said vfeed-dog and the eam to vary the feed, and means operating automatically to rednee the teed at detinite points upon the sewing-line.

t). ,A sewiluf machine having a drivinr shaft, a. nee le-bar reeiproeated by sai shaft, means for Feeding the material to the needh. a foot-har mounted to roel( in hearings parallel with the needle-har. a foot 'arried hy the Ytoot-har with a eloth guide attached thereto, means to lift the foot, and means ar-tnated hy the driving-shattto roel( the loot-har at intervals and oseillate the cloth-guide transversely to the sewing-line when the toot ie lifted.

lt). A sewingY machine having a drivingshaft, a needle-har reeiproeated by said Shaft. means for feeding the material to the needle., a foot-har mounted to roel( in heat'- ingS parallel with the needle-har, a foot earried hy the 'toot-har with a cloth-guide attached thereto, a worm upon the drivingshatt, a worm-wheel rotated thereby, and a earn rotated with the. worin-Wheel and having projections operatin" to rook the. foot-har at. delnito intervalii and thereby shift the, clothguide transversely to the sewing-line.

1l. ,A sewingr machine having a drivingsllai't, a needle-liar reeiproeated hy said shal't, means l'or feeding the material to the needle. a l'oot-har mounted to rook in hearings parallel with the needle-intr, u. foot eall'ied lly the, t'oot--llar with a eloth-gtlide attaehed thereto, a worin upon the drivingshalt. a worin-wheel rotated thereby, two Canis driien by the n'orln-whfwl. andv op erated, one to litt the foot at pre-determined interrals, and the other to rot-lt die foot-lan' and foot, when thus, liftedW l2. A sewing niaehine havinff a driving shaft, a needle-bar reeiprm'ated oy said sha a` t'eeil dogg having a eonneetion to the dritiri -lmlt for arresting or varying its. niet. nient, a fool-leal mounted to roehV in hearinge parallel with the needle-bar, a foot and cloth-guide, carried by the 'toot-bar, a Worm upon the driving-shaft, a Worm-Wheel rotated thereby, and rains rotated with the worm-wheel and operated, one to iilt, they toot at pre-delerininetl interrate, another to roeltY the toot-hal' and eloth-gnde when thus lit'ted. and the other to arrest the feed at euri-emanating' intervals.

l. seeing inaehine hating a driving.;- slial't and means to reiiinoeate a needle to see a lseam` a toot-liar mounted to rook or turn in lian-ings, a foot earried by the foethar with a cloth-uitte attaelied thereto, means (zonnet-ting; the driving-shaft, with .sueh foot-liar lor antoniatieally turning;r the toot-lair, and means t'or wrijving the ektent ot sueh turningr or rocking motion, siii)- staniially as herein set forth.

li. A sewing' niaehine having a driving?- .sllal't and means to reeiprnez'tte a needle, means` l'or feeding the elotl'n a eedwzduiitsl innV sha l't with means; Yfor manually 'varying' or arri-stingr the Feed, means eonneeting the driving-shalt with the said l'eed-adjltstinr shalt for automatically reducing the feet' at definite intervals, and means connected therewith l'or varying the extent ofthe feed.

15. In a newing-nuiehine, a foot, :t driving shaft and .moana connected thereto and. opera ting; in ltiiison therewith, Such means e0- sistingg; ot mechanism for reciprocating a needle, means for feeding the elet-h., means for rednein; r the t'eed at intervals along the sewing line, means t'or producing tie-:Stitches angularly to the seam along the Sewing line and therehy reinloreing the same thereat and means for holding the foot in a shifted position while producing" the tie-stitehe.

.Tn testimony whereof I have hereunto Set my hand 'in the presence of two subscribing witneses.

LE() RSENMAN. 1wllt'itnesses IJ. JEE, TrroMAs S. CRANE.

lill) 

